Chardonnay Estate, Kumeu River 2020

The 2020 Estate Chardonnay is taut and salty, with a very fine spool of acid, fruit and phenolics that weave over the palate. A gorgeous wine, it's quiet and composed. Really great—what a joy. 13.5% alcohol sealed under screw cap.

Spontaneous fermentation of hand-picked grapes, whole-bunch pressed. Lightly but not excessively reductive on the nose. Already quite expansive on the nose with beautiful impact on the palate: citrus, blossom and really neat acidity without much astringency. Elegant and racy – almost lightweight on the mid palate and then it is impressively persistent. A thorough delight already. VGV 13.5% Drink 2021 – 2025

Oak – 100% barrel fermentation in 20% new French oak and 100% malolactic fermentation with 11 months maturation in barrel.The level of oaking in these wines is always very controlled but it sticks out more in the Estate creation than in all of the other wines and this means that it definitely needs more time. Bold, assertive and punchy, this is a grand-shaped wine for the money and the thought of opening a few magnums in five or six years’ time is indeed rather attractive. For now, though, keep your hands off this wine! 17.5/20

Intense and complex chardonnay with lemons and peaches, as well as pastry and fresh cream. The palate is stacked with ripe-peach flavor and fresher, citrus tones and has complex, layered texture. Classy wine. Drink now. Screw cap.