Soave Classico Calvarino, Pieropan 2021

The 50th anniversary vintage. The first single vineyard white wine of Italy. Tuffeau and basalt. Calvarino is fermented in cement rather than the tank, as is used for the Classico. A broader sash of orchard fruits, verging toward toffee apple, mingle with ginger, orange blossom, rosemary, sage, almond and jasmine. 20-30% Trebbiano di Soave due to its affinity with volcanic soils. Saline and sappy, whilst also resinous and intense. A powerful wine that is paradoxically pixelated of detail, immensely saline and beautifully light on its feet. The sort of wine I challenge anyone not to love. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.