Criots Batard Montrachet Haute Densite, Domaine Hubert Lamy 2022

As usual, there's only one barrel of the 2022 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité, a glorious wine that will richly reward anyone able to attain a bottle—and to exercise the patience required to enjoy it at its best. Unwinding in the glass with notes of sweet orchard fruit, orange oil, oyster shell, freshly baked bread and wheat toast, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep and multidimensional core of fruit, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. It's the king of the cellar, but it's also the most reserved wine in the range and really needs some time to show all its cards.