Riesling Polish Hill, Grosset 2023

The 2023 Polish Hill Riesling is utterly superb. It has the flesh and body that only the Clare can deliver; it is shaped by coiled acidity, and it ripples through the finish with unfettered fruit power. It's a glorious thing, this wine. It's looking precise, focused and floral through the lens of the 2023 season. 12.9% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Full screwcapped bottle 1,280 g, much lighter than the 2022 bottle. From Grosset's famous vineyard that is now certified organic and biodynamic vineyard (see Grosset – a biodynamics sceptic converted). Late, cool vintage.There used to be a wide variation between Grosset's Springvale and Polish Hill Riesling bottlings but I think it's narrowing. This has some floral elements as well as the lime fruit. Rather beautiful balance already. Both wines have lovely pure acidity and persistence. Complete. And slightly tenser than the 2022. (JR)

Subdued aromas of talc, chalk, orchard fruits, tatami straw, finger lime and fresh lemonade. Dry and tightly furled to a point that verges on severity. There is bountiful extract that pummels the cheeks and stains the palate, suggestive of a bright future despite the unyielding youthfulness now. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.