Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau du Martray 2014

Very sexy aromas of apple, wild herbs, spices and soil. Boasts outstanding breadth and sweetness, with lovely savory complexity to the flavors of medicinal herbs, citrus fruits and powdered stone. Really superb tension in the mouth here. The echoing, building finish conveys an impression of outstanding density and a strong saline character. Showing spectacularly today but it's hard to believe that this wine won't shut down in bottle at some point. 2021-2032

A highly restrained nose features notes of cool and ultra-pure citrus, green apple, white flowers, herbal tea and wet stone. There is a distinctly racy mouth feel to the super intense and well-delineated medium weight plus flavors that are strikingly focused on the chiseled, clean, dry and moderately austere finale that delivers stunningly good complexity. I very much like this understated effort as it is an exercise in harmony and refinement and while there is the usual taut muscularity of a classic Corton-Charlemagne, it certainly doesn't lack for elegance either. In a word, sublime.

The 2014 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, which was still on the less when I tasted it at the domaine, has a crisp, fresh oyster shell-tinged bouquet that opens nicely with aeration. It is just a little austere, not that is detracts from its pleasure. The palate is fresh on the entry with a crisp line of acidity; perhaps a little more austere than other vintages, but that allows the terroir to show through. There is a lovely touch of lemongrass on the finish that prolongs length, completing a fine, quite saline, intriguing contribution to the vintage.