Volnay Santenots du Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2022

For the first time, the Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu contains 50% whole clusters, which they believe adds more freshness to the wine. I think it gives another layer of complexity: black plum, violet, briar and just a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins and gentle grip, gaining body and depth towards a harmonious and minerally finish. Excellent. NB In 2023, they de-stemmed 100%, so the whole bunches are subject to the growing season. (Drink between 2025-2048)

Slightly riper and markedly spicier aromas of poached plum, dark currant and a suggestion of earth enjoy a variety of floral influences and in particular violet. There is excellent volume and better mid-palate density to the focused and powerful larger-bodied flavors that conclude in a compact, serious and bult-to-age finale. This is impressive and wine that should age gracefully over the next 20 years. Strongly worth considering. (Drink starting 2034)

Much the deepest and densest purple of the three Lafon Volnay 1ers Crus, with intensity on the nose to match. Darker berries, may quite restrained, such is the intensity. This is a huge wine on the palate, with good acidity, still needs a lot more elevage. The quality of the fruit comes out in the excellent finish with very well integrated tannins. This matches the sublime 2019 Santenots.