Unico, Vega Sicilia 1994

This bodega has produced many profound wines, but the 1994 Unico Reserva may be the greatest vintage released since their legendary 1970 and 1968. A truly prodigious effort, it boasts an opaque ruby/purple color as well as a gorgeously sweet, expansive bouquet of sweet cherries interwoven with black currant, truffle, licorice, and scorched earth aromas. Full-bodied, potent, powerful, and well-delineated with crisp acidity, sweet but noticeable tannin, a multidimensional, expansive, layered palate feel, and a pure yet refreshing finish, it should be a wine for the history books. Anticipated maturity: now-2035.

1994 was a very heralded vintage in Ribera del Duero, when the region was exploding with new projects and enjoyed a textbook growing season with a cold winter with average rain, a mild spring and a warm and dry summer that delivered a very healthy crop. Today, the 1994 Único from magnum feels very Bordelais; the documentation talks about 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, but at the time, they still sometimes used Merlot and even a little Malbec. It's quite peppery, with some paprika notes and moderate ripeness and alcohol (13.5%). 2,196 magnums produced. Artwork by Francisco Bores. Drink 2008-2038.

The 1994 Unico is a blend of 80% Tinto Fino, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot (presumably 2% is unknown varieties) that was picked from September 28. It is very intense with notes of raspberry, wild strawberry and mulberry with sensational minerality and vigor. There is a Margaux-like florality to the 1994 that blossom with aeration. The palate is rounded and supple on the entry with great weight and backbone. There is real substance here, similar to the 1996. It expands in the mouth with ravishing notes of blackberry, strawberry, citrus lemon, orange peel and a touch of cedar. There is enormous weight on the finish, a behemoth of a Unico. This is very potent, but it still requires several years in bottle. 96,280 bottles produced. Drink 2019-2040.

Still dark in colour, with alluring aromas of blackberry, mineral and cigar box, this red shows a firm, fresh, balanced palate, with black cherry, vanilla, mineral and floral flavours that mingle over firm, well-intergrated tannins and float onto a long finish. Its harmonious, lively and complex; not showy but with great beauty and character. Drink now through 2012