Ruchottes Chambertin, Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier 1988

The 1988 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru comprises six barrels (another six are under the "Bonnefond" label as the parcel is under métayage). This is actually a step up from the Charmes with a brilliantly-defined, pixelated bouquet, providing much more mineralité and terroir expression. Quite intense with underlying petrichor scents that emerge. The palate is tensile from the start, fizzing with energy, a mixture of red and black fruit with a "transparent" finish, this Ruchottes rivets you to the spot. Tasted at the Roumier 1988 dinner at Noizé. (Drink between 2022-2045)

This possesses a really lovely nose that is fully mature yet quite fresh while reflecting moderate amounts of sous-bois, spice, earth and the truffle-character that fine older Ruchottes often displays. This aspect is also picked up by the delicious, vibrant and intense middleweight flavors that offer solid punch on the mouth-coating and admirably long if slightly austere finish. Tasted twice before, once in 2008 and again in 2021 with consistent notes. (Drink starting 2022)