Lynch Bages 1989

The 1989 has taken forever to shed its formidable tannins, but what a great vintage of Lynch Bages! I would rank it at the top of the pyramid although the 1990, 2000, and down the road, some of the more recent vintages such as 2005, 2009 and 2010 should come close to matching the 1989's extraordinary concentration and undeniable aging potential. Its dense purple color reveals a slight lightening at the edge and the stunning bouquet offers classic notes of creme de cassis, subtle smoke, oak and graphite. Powerful and rich with some tannins still to shed at age 22, it is still a young adolescent in terms of its evolution and will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring. It should prove to be a 50 year wine.

One of the all-time great vintages for this château is the 1989 Lynch-Bages, a striking wine that offers up pure and intense aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, spring flowers and hints of cigar wrapper. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's seamless and concentrated, with a rich core of fruit, ripe tannins and a beautifully defined finish. Still an infant at age 32, it surpasses all three of Pauillac's first growths in 1989.

The 1989 Lynch Bages is a wine that in multiple tastings has never really put a foot wrong and as it approaches 30 years, one wonders just how long this Pauillac is going to give so much drinking pleasure. Those enticing blackberry and cedar scents remain in situ, maybe less pencil lead here compared to previous bottles. Yet, you have to stand back to admire the intensity and sheer brio of these aromatics. The palate is still unbelievably fresh, this the most youthful example that I have encountered with pure black fruit laced with cedar, just a hint of chestnut towards the symmetrical finish. When I first tasted the 1989 I remarked that it is equal to a First Growth, a sentiment that I have no hesitation in repeating. Jean-Michel Cazes would not make a better wine until the following year. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. 2019 - 2040

Magnum. Absolutely gorgeous. Fully mature, all tannins spent, sweet and fragrant but with the depth of a great claret. The donor, Stephen Browett, asserted the superiority of this wine over many a first growth in 1989. It might not last as long as 2034 in bottle rather than magnum.