La Mission Haut Brion 1998

A candidate for the wine of the vintage from this somewhat forgotten year, consumers should be seeking out wines from the Right Bank and Graves as 1998 was a great vintage in those appellations. La Mission's 1998 exhibits a healthy, opaque blue/purple color with no lightening at the edge. Thirty minutes of aeration brings forth a sensational bouquet of chocolate, cedar, truffles, graphite, blackberries, cassis and incense. La Mission's so-called scorched earth/charcoal/hot rocks characteristic has not yet appeared. Full-bodied with superb purity, a multilayered texture, sweet tannin, good acidity and a fabulously long finish, this great, young La Mission-Haut-Brion's finest days are yet to come. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.

A limpid garnet core with ruby rim. The nose here is gregarious, ebullient, almost exotic in style with ripe blackberries, black cherries and a hint of black olives. This a glorious bouquet that soars from the glass but after five minutes it has clammed up a little and needs rigorous swirling to revivify. The palate is full-bodied with firm, ripe tannins. It still has the hubris and exoticism that it displayed in its youth but it is more tempered with a decade ageing. Notes of black cherries, bilberry and a touch of black olives towards the finish. Vibrant and intoxicating. Needs more time though. Drink 2012-2040+. Tasted May 2008.

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is deep garnet-brick colored with a pretty perfume of potpourri, spice box, menthol, sandalwood, tobacco and new leather. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant with tons of fragrant layers, finishing with loads of mineral and tons of energy. Drink up to 2030.

1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan: This is really classic in style with incredible depth and power. Muscular and amazing, it is full-bodied yet tight and agile. So complex. Shows iodine, oyster, stone and mint aromas and flavors. It's rich and flavorful and at the same time fresh and racy. A modern classic. Drink or hold. Decant this one or two hours in advance. 99 points.Delmas said he made the 1998 La Mission wine with his father, Jean, who was a legend for three decades in Bordeaux. "We made two truly great wines together, 1998 and 2000," said Jean Philippe. "I think 1998 is our best ever together."