La Croix de Beaucaillou 2010

Since 2005 it is no longer a second wine but from a plot in the centre of the appellation with less estuarine influence. Very deep crimson. Deep crimson. Very rich and round. Suave and convincing. Lots of life and masses of fruit. €30-35 euros. A new label designed by a British designer will be launched at Annabels, London in May.

Rich ripe black fruits give power on the nose and depth on the palate. Cassis seems to dominate enriched by chocolate and coffee beans but under the richness there is freshness from the red cherry and bilberry. The tannins are remarkably fleshy and supple.

Very good depth of Cabernet-dominated fruit, lightly spicy, silky length, perfect balance. Drink 2015-25.

This represented 55% of the production and now, under Bruno Borie, comes from the same vineyard almost every year. (The vineyard is on the other side of the Route du Vin, separating Beaucaillou from estates such as St.-Pierre, Branaire-Ducru and Gloria.) Sweet mulberry and boysenberry fruit intermixed with licorice, forest floor and earth are followed by an opulently textured, fleshy wine that is dense and outstanding. I joked with Bruno Borie that the second wine is probably better than many of the Ducru Beaucaillous produced in the 1970s. It should drink well for 10-15 years.

A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, destined to be aged in 60% new oak for 12 months, the Croix du Beaucaillou delivers 13.66% alcohol at a pH of 3.64. It has a very refined bouquet, great definition but tightly-wound at the moment. Hints of black cherries, blackberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, a lovely creamy texture with fine precision on the finish. Everything in its right place. Tasted March 2011.