Grands Echézeaux, Domaine Georges Noellat 2015

A restrained nose requires plenty of agitation to reveal the aromas of spiced plum, red and dark currant and soft whiffs of various floral elements. There is a caressing yet muscular palate feel to the succulent medium weight plus flavors that display a lovely inner mouth perfume on the complex, firm and strikingly persistent finish. This is classy juice that, like the Ech, should be approachable young yet reward extended cellaring. Drink: 2027+

The 2015 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak and unlike the Echézeaux, it was completely de-stemmed. It has a precise bouquet with expressive red berry fruit, cranberry, wild strawberry and pomegranate, though these are complemented by dark, blacker fruit with time in the glass. There is very good terroir expression here with undergrowth and damp moss-like aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit and a pinch of sea salt that gets the saliva flowing. There is exquisite balance here, very fine tannins and much more sophistication towards the finish compared to the Echézeaux. It is a brilliant, intellectual wine from Maxime Chuerling, but it will require 5-7 years in the cellar before it reaches full flight. 2021 - 2045