Fonsalette Rouge, Château Rayas 2007

Bright red. Black raspberry and floral aromas are complemented by Asian spices, anise and white pepper. Racy, finely etched red berry and cherry flavors stain the palate and become deeper and sweeter with air. Shows no rough edges and finishes with superb focus and sweet, sappy persistence. This puts most Chateauneufs in the shade.

I have followed the Fonsalette Cotes du Rhones since the mid-1960s, and it is a candidate for one of the finest and longest-lived Cotes du Rhones in nearly every top vintage. Emmanuel Reynaud has made a wonderful 2007 that displays terrific Provencal character with large quantities of kirsch, lavender, licorice, roasted herbs and some pepper and meatiness. It is medium to full-bodied, relatively evolved for a Fonsalette, but don’t let that confuse you, because this wine will age for 10-15 years at the very minimum.