Clos de Vougeot, Domaine d'Eugénie 2022

80% whole bunch vinification with 19 new barrels out of 26. A glowing purple with darker fruit showing along with a little new wood behind. This has power and tension, more tannins than any of its stable mates, a blacker style of fruit, good acidity. The tannins are firm, but this is just so much more backward than anything else in the cellar and will make a very fine CV in time.

The 2022 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is terrific, offering up aromas of cherries, dark berries, orange zest, spices and rose petals, followed by a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional palate that's rich and textural, its deep core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It will be hard to choose between this and the Grands-Echézeaux this year.

The Clos Vougeot from Eugénie is a bright spot in an impressive range, with ripe black cherry fruit aromas scented with violets and sweet spice. The texture is approachable yet firmly structured and long; the whole is enormously seductive. The grapes come from the mature vines in the domaine's superb 1.37-hectare parcel near the Château in Les Marets Hauts; 80% vinified as whole clusters, ageing in cask, 19 of 26 of which are new (73%). Wait three to five years and enjoy over the next three decades. (Drink between 2025-2060)