Certan de May 2016

The 2016 Certan de May was disappointingly skinny when I tasted it from barrel. It has put on weight during its élevage, as one expects, but trust me, this is not up there with the greatest wines from Certan de May. The bouquet is pleasant but does not go that extra mile, coming across a little green around the edges and missing some vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite supple tannins and well-judged acidity. I appreciate the freshness here, but this does not deliver the complexity or terroir expression of the best vintages, or even some of its great successes in the 2000s. I know this Pomerol can do better. Drink 2021-2035

A deeply intense and plush Pomerol with immaculately ripe fruit and tannins. So well executed with aromas of truffle, dark stones, coal smoke and intense dark plums and cocoa powder. The palate has an immaculate texture with very bright, velvety tannins, carrying rich dark plums. Plum pudding and Christmas cake to close. Try from 2025.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium garnet-purple colored 2016 Certan de May offers up notes of wild blueberries, black cherries and raspberry leaves with hints of black tea, roses and tar. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a wonderful quiet intensity of blue, red and black fruits plus a fine-grained backbone and superb freshness, delivery and very long, mineral-tinged finish. 2019 - 2040

This is a little more stately and measured than some, with ground coffee and deep extraction of blackberry and bilberry. There is slightly less vibrancy running through the palate, but it remains a solidly impressive wine. 65% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon from clay and deep gravel.