CDP Vieux Télégraphe, Vignobles Brunier Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 2007

The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25+ years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier.

Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage,with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and darklicorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilledmesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone-filledfinish. Best from 2010 through 2030.

The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity, and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45+ seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would wait until 2012 before pulling a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years.