Barolo Romirasco, Poderi Aldo Conterno 2021

Graphite and minerals dominate on the nose, with potpourri, dried cherries, orange zest, wax and licorice. There is a lot of fruit sweetness on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Full-bodied, it will age for decades.

The nose and palate here have found equilibrium already, unlike Cicala and ahead of Colonnello. It is firm, structured and imposing, as is always the case with Romirasco. While I often favour this wine over the other two vineyards, and it is undoubtedly a magnificent creation in 2021, I cannot stop thinking about Cicala and what a standout it is. So, I had to shake myself and go back to the glass multiple times to focus intensely on this wine, and there is stunning texture, velvetiness and flair here, and there is already a compelling completeness. This is a wine to stand back and admire and take in its magnificent structure, elegance and refinement. If Cicala finds this degree of sophistication, given time, it might edge ahead of this wine. For now, this is the leader of the pack.

Romirasco is the estate’s largest site, directly east of Cicala but combining the geology of the latter with that of Colonnello, and so typically ends up being the most balsamic in profile. The 2021 wafts mint, rosemary, slightly grilled nuances and a hint of dark chocolate. The palate flows smoothly and seamlessly, giving an impression of weightlessness yet with profound depth and concentration. Inner floral perfumes mingle with spicy pepper, and velvety tannins build to an imposing volume, picking up grainy wood and clamping down dryly on the finish. I look forward to revisiting many years from now.