Barolo La Pira Vecchie Viti, Roagna 2012

The proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, 2012 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti, has it all. At times sensual and weightless, while in other moments much more powerful, the 2012 constantly changes in the glass, in the way only top flight Nebbiolo can. The 2012 is dense and layered, with striking translucency that plays off the more overt elements. Structured and yet also light on its feet, the 2012 is superb today. The persistent, classically austere finish will thrill readers who enjoy traditionally made Barolos. I find the differences between Roagna's two 2012 Barolos to be more stylistic rather than qualitative. The Barolo Pira will drink beautifully with minimal cellaring, while the Vecchie Viti is a wine for the cellar.