Chassagne Montrachet Grandes Ruchottes, Bernard Moreau 2017

As usual, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes is quite youthfully reserved, opening up with aeration to reveal notions of pear, citrus oil, almond paste and warm bread. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered and voluminous core that's underpinned by racy acids, showing even more apparent cut and tension than it did from barrel. The finish is long and saline. A wine that would embarrass many grands crus, this is a prodigious Grandes Ruchottes that is built to age, and at least a decade's patience will be in order here.