Charmes Chambertin, Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot 2017

From one third of a hectare in Les Mazoyères, planted in 1968 by Thomas Collardot’s grandfather. It was a selection massale – but of the theoretically unfavoured pinot droit. However a mix of vine age and perhaps global warming has turned in an excellent result, especially as the pinot droit seems to have delivered additional acidity. Rich purple with a gorgeously glossy fruit bounding out of the glass. Much greater tension here and so much the better. Mineral on the palate with significant density and firm fresh acidity. Not a creamy style of Charmes, but this is impressive. Tasted: November 2018