Agrapart Terroirs Blanc de Blanc N.V.

The latest rendition of Agrapart's NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Terroirs is excellent. Based on the 2018 vintage, with fully 80% reserve wines from 2017 (some 40% of which mature in wood), it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and chiseled, evocative of citrus oil, buttered toast, mint and fresh bread. It derives from holdings in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry.

The NV Terroirs Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut is 100% Chardonnay from the Avize Grand Cru. Bottled in May 2018, it was disgorged in March 2022 and has no more than 5 g/L dosage. This is always a blend of 2 vintages from specifically chosen Grand Cru vineyard blocks in Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Oiry. The nose shows impressive restraint, with subtle yet distinct chalk dust, honeyed toast, lemon curd, and orange blossom scents, followed by hints of cashew butter and grapefruit oil. The palate is delicately styled with a racy yet well-balanced acid line and a very fine mousse to frame the nuanced citrus and mineral-laced flavors, finishing with great persistence. Delicious now, but it has the structure and intensity to develop gracefully over the next decade and keep for up to 20 years. This is one for those who seek high-class finesse and restraint, not for those looking for richness and opulence.