Chablis Vaillons, Domaine William Fèvre 2020

Touches of menthol and wood surround the floral and pepper scented nose that isn't quite as fresh as that of the Montmains. There is by contrast good energy to the very rich and nicely voluminous flavors that conclude in a bitter lemon and intensely saline-inflected finale. Very good but not truly special. Drink: 2025+

Picked early. This is at a slightly different stage of elevage so is currently cloudy. Stones rinsed in lemon sums up the bouquet. Sunny and austere together, a mature terroir, steely backbone and finish. Bring on the grilled fish.

A restrained Vaillons with nice balance but not quite the drive of this producer’s Montmains at the moment. A precocious, richer example of premier cru but with the stuffing to age well, showing sappy fruit, with a lovely hint of lime on the palate. Relatively early drinking but will keep. 2022 - 2026