CDP Réserve des Célestins, Henri Bonneau 2005

The powerful, massive, tannic 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins is a 30-year wine. Its dense plum color is followed by huge notes of Asian hoisin sauce, smoked meats, beef blood, kirsch, figs and black currants. This full-bodied 2005 may be the biggest, richest Chateauneuf du Pape Henri Bonneau has produced since his 1998. The tannins are still frightfully high, and the wine is structured and backward, but so, so promising. Forget this 2005 for another 5-7 years and drink it over the following three decades.

A big, muscular Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 2005 Henri Bonneau Réserve des Célestins delivers a thrilling array of plum, crème de cassis, roasted garrigue, blood, and hints of graphite on the nose. Absolutely compelling aromatically, with awesome typicity and complexity, this full-bodied, structured effort is thick and rich on the palate, with a layered, concentrated mid-palate, integrated acidity, and blockbuster length on the finish. Given the almost voluptuous texture and quality of fruit, this is a profound drink now; nevertheless, it will benefit from 5-7 years of bottle age, and keep for 2 decades or more. If I had to choose one bottle to represents the essence of traditionally made Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this would be it!

Ready now, with a beautiful fragrance of violets, roses and potpourri. Full but soft and generous, the tannins are resolved now with a touch of rhubarb and plum on the palate. Very Châteauneuf, it's not trying too hard and gives a gentle, floating finish. Very good indeed. 2020-2026