Capbern 2022

Concentrated in colour and in flavour, this is one of the few big name wines this year that really does seem to have lost typicity, but no doubt impacted by the hail more than the vintage itself. Lots of spice, deep clove spice, feels lusicous in texture, but more exuberant than usual, lacks some of that old school Capbern restraint. Harvest September 6 through to 27.28hl/h yield, following hail early in the season. 60% new oak for ageing.

53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample.Firm, structured and long on the finish. Plentiful tannins but polished and round. Oak a little too manifest at present, the finish drying, but should integrate. (JL) 15%Drink 2029– 2040

The 2022 Capbern was cropped at 26hL/ha between 6 and 27 September, a 20-day cuvaison and matured in 60% new oak for a planned 18 months. The Cabernet Sauvignon berries were tiny this year, which underlies why the Merlot comprises a higher percentage of the blend. It has an airy, floral bouquet with blackberries, wild strawberries and a touch of raspberry confit. There's an almost Pinot-like purity. The palate is medium-bodied with a grippy, peppery entry, full-bodied and muscular at the moment. I'm seeking a bit more grace here - perhaps this Saint-Estèphe is slightly over-revving on the finish? 2027-2047

A firm and tight red with blackberry and currant character. Medium body. Bright and savory.

Attractive inky ruby colour, sculpted slightly heady iris flowers on the aromatics, opens to damson fruits, cocoa bean, liquorice root, slate, clear concentration and a flash of heat. Harvest began on September 6, earliest ever seen here, through to September 27. 26hl/h yields. 60% new oak.