Canon 2001

This famous St-Émilion is a 1er Grand Cru Classé (B) property, planted with 30% Cabernet Franc and 70% Merlot, is owned by Chanel who also owns Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux. A classic Canon vintage, meaning one without excess, where the precision of the winemaking is able to shine. 2001 was the last year before the introduction of manual sorting (although there was always manual harvesting) but it doesn't seem to have done any harm. This is rich yet nuanced, with a seam of fresh minerality running alongside the merlot and cabernet franc fruit; cassis and redcurrant but just starting to head towards tertiary truffle-and-liquorice flavours in the best possible way. A wine that keeps an elegant distance, encourages you to take your time.

The 2001 Canon is an outstanding example of this fine vintage, though the wine is still several years away from truly starting to blossom and drink with real generosity. The fairly primary nose shows very good promise in its blend of red and black cherries, menthol, woodsmoke, a beautiful base of limestone soil and just a touch of new oak around the edges. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and tightly-knit, with a sappy core of fruit, ripe, firm tannins and a long, tangy and youthful finish. This wine is still slumbering away in hibernation and needs a few more years before it will start to stir.

Mid ruby. A bit hot and animal on the nose. Very sweet – like essence of Saint-Emilion with marked tannin and acidity.

Magnum. Meat juices, black fruit, clove, dark chocolate, even a hint of coffee. The tannin is still intact, giving fine grip on the palate. Expansive and persistent, there is lots of volume here, without being overblown.