Yquem 1988

This remarkable wine is much more backward, less flamboyant, and more gentlemanly than the 1990 or 1989. Its light-golden color is more youthful than its younger siblings, the bouquet powerful but restrained, with subtle yet intense notes of coconut, orange marmalade, crème brulée, peach, and white corn emerging very gently but authoritatively. In the mouth it builds incrementally, as this is a wine of enormous richness, power, but far higher acidity than the 1990 or 1989. The wine is relatively light of its feet for such a powerful, highly extracted, and sensational effort. This is certainly one of the great Yquems, and probably more along the style of the 1975 than more recent vintages. Anticipated maturity 2010-2070

The 1988 Yquem is a vintage that I have drunk with enormous pleasure on numerous occasions. This last bottle was the perfect ending to a horizontal of 1988 Roumier wines at Noizé. It was a late harvest that lasted until All Saints Day (1 November). A total of 6 tries were necessary through the vineyard, each gifting plenty of botrytised fruit. Deep amber in hue, it offers wonderful aromas of mandarin, orange blossom, wax resin and a light adhesive scent. I was actually quite taken aback but the splendid delineation and life-affirming vitality of this example, hints of crème brûlée interwoven through the honeyed fruit, Clementine and hints of caramelised pear. It fans out wonderfully on the finish. Without doubt, this was the best bottle of 1988 Yquem that I have encountered. 2022-2050

The 1988 d'Yquem has an incredibly profound nose of orange marmalade, dried apricots, honeycomb, musk and dried pineapple with hints of marzipan and crystallized ginger. The palate is seamless with a great line of crisp acid cutting through the densely packed dried tropical fruit and honeyed flavour layers. The finish just goes on and on.

Dark tawny. The most uintriging nose Glossy and lively and more intellectual than the other two, Extremely long - a hint of ginger and real zest. Certainly seemed the best of these three without a doubt. Very racy and flirtatious - maybe racier than the 1989. Powerful and very very long.Date tasted 13th Feb 08Drink 2000-2040