La Mondotte 2000

In two tastings this garagiste wine performed as if it were one of the wines of the vintage. Proprietor Stefan von Neipperg continues to lavish abundant attention on La Mondotte (as he does with all his estates), and the 2000 (80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) boasts an inky/blue/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of graphite, caramel, toast, blackberries, and creme de cassis. A floral component also emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Extremely dense, full-bodied, and built for another twenty years of cellaring, I thought it would be close to full maturity, but it appears to need another 4-5 years of bottle age. It should age effortlessly for 2-3 decades.

From a 11.3-acre vineyard cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is a candidate for perfection. The 2000 La Mondotte has a saturated, inky purple color to the rim and a tight but enormously promising nose of blackberry and cassis liqueur intermixed with cherry, vanilla, espresso, mocha, and a hint of acacia flower. This unfined and unfiltered wine is enormously rich, with great intensity, fabulous purity, a layered texture, and a viscous, full-bodied finish that goes on for nearly one minute. In spite of its size, the wine has remarkable finesse and delineation. This is another tour de force in winemaking from proprietor Stephan von Neipperg and winemaking consultant Stephane Derenoncourt. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. P.S.