Belair-Monange 2010

Arresting new red and white label. Mid crimson. Very rich, plump, sumptuous nose. This really is quite dramatic! Then firm on the palate - a very strong statement of intent to age. Relatively rich for a Moueix St-Émilion though much more restrained and classical than most of its peers elsewhere. Dry finish with good balance though clearly quite a lot of alcohol. The tannins are definitely present. This is much less dense than the more caricature style of this appellation.

The nose has some attractive quite concentrated fruit but the palate lacks a bit of depth. There is some complexity towards the back but the tannins cut in closing down and shortening the finish.

Fresh and elegant in style but with an impressive density of fruit. Balanced and well defined. Follows in the footsteps of the excellent '09. As good, perhaps better. Drink 2018-2040.

This tiny estate was in the qualitative doldrums for decades, but it has been resurrected by Christian Moueix and his son, Edmond, over the last few years and the 2010 ranks alongside the brilliant 2009. Two-thirds of this vineyard is planted on the pure limestone hillsides and the rest is on the Plateau of St.-Emilion. One parcel, over 100 years of age, produces a minuscule 5-10 hectoliters per hectare. The 2010, primarily Merlot, boasts a dense purple color as well as raspberry fruit notes intermixed with a liqueur of powdered rocks. With abundant fruit, minerality, size, substance, personality and extraordinary individuality, this stunningly concentrated St.-Emilion is a tour de force in great winemaking. It will need 4-5 years of cellaring and should keep for 25-30 years.

The 2010 Bélair-Monange is beginning to fulfill its potential. The bouquet is well defined with copious black and red fruit laced with graphite and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied and like many 2010s its firm structure is in place, as well as ample freshness thanks to its natural acidity. There is just a touch of sappiness towards the finish where I would just like to see more mineralité develop and I suspect it will. One to watch, so give it another three or four years in bottle. Served by Christian Moueix following a tasting a J-P Moueix. 2022 - 2035

Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. Twelve months ago I speculated whether this Saint Emilion cru would "calm down with bottle age" and it seems to be doing just that. It has a nicely focused bouquet with spicy red berry fruit, dried herbs and undergrowth, tightly coiled at first but unfurling nicely with sage and beetroot notes underneath. The palate is becoming more classic in style with a saline entry and well judged tannins; truffle tinged black fruit and a more composed finish that last year. At last, this is showing more how it performed in barrel back in 2011. Tasted January 2014.

The Belair-Monange (ex-Belair) has a very natural, well defined nose that does not go and grab you, but it relatively understated at first. Leaving my glass aside for 3-4 minutes, it really blossoms with scents of boysenberry, wild hedgerow, briary and a faint honey-ish tang. The palate is medium-bodied with a citric-thread of acidity that is has in common with Magdelaine. Very tight on the entry, fanning out towards the very elegant finish (one of the most refined in Saint Emilion.) This has great potential. Tasted April 2011.