Belair-Monange 2008

The first substantial and reassuringly great Belair-Monange in many decades, the 2008 represents the epitome of elegance and minerality. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet red and black fruits intermixed with notes of spring flowers and crushed rocks, a layered mouthfeel, superb nobility and remarkable intensity offered in a finesse-filled format. Kudos to Edmond and Christian Moueix for their resurrection of this iconic 6.2 acre vineyard.

The 2008 Bélair-Monange was the first vintage where Christian Moueix had total control of the vineyard after his acquisition of the historic property. It has a crisp red cherry and crushed strawberry nose that perhaps needs more intensity. It feels airy, almost Burgundian in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple, quite fleshy opening. There is good body here, belying the structure underneath although I discerned a touch of greenness on the finish. Moueix’s tenure has produced better Belair’s than the 2008 and I would consume bottles over the next four to five years. 2018 - 2030

New name for Pascal Delbeck's old Ch Belair next to Ausone, 'because there are so many Belairs in France' explain J P Moueix who are now responsible for this extremely well-placed property.Racy, sleek, with fine dry tannins on the finish. Vigorous and positive but much, much more concentrated than this wine used to be - a different animal. Not a Rollandian sweet one but much more like Ausone with a polish. A JP Moueix wine and therefore drier, as in more savoury, than most at this quality level.

The 2008 is clearly a product of fully ripened fruit and physiologically mature tannins, something the previous administration rarely sought, too frequently harvesting under-ripe fruit with green, astringent tannins. The results were always predictable - reprehensible wines from an extraordinary terroir. That has all changed under Christian and Edouard Moueix's guidance. The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2008 reveals an extraordinary aromatic display of crushed rocks, spring flowers, and abundant kirsch and black raspberry fruit. The wine possesses good acids, unreal minerality, and superb intensity, texture, and length. The harvest was extremely late, between October 14-21, and after the selections were done, the final yield came to 12 hectoliters per hectare - commercial madness. The result is an amazing effort that should evolve for 30 years. Formerly known as Chateau Belair, 2008 is the first vintage in which Christian Moueix, his son, Edouard, and new oenologist, Eric Murisasco, had 100% control at Belair-Monange, and they have admirably demonstrated just what this great terroir is capable of producing. Cropped at an unreal 18 hectoliters per hectare, it appears ready to compete with its near-by neighbor, Ausone.