Tokaji Betsek 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company 2018

The 2018 Tokaji Betsek 6-Puttonyos is left for 15 minutes to open in the glass. Following the stunning Mézes Mály is an unenviable task, and it doesn't reach the same level of complexity. Potpourri hints intermix with dried honey and jasmine scents. But the palate is superb: outstanding purity, perhaps the spiciest of the Single Vineyard cuvées, stem ginger and a dab of Szechuan pepper towards the finish that lingers long in the mouth. I would afford this a couple of years in bottle. (203.2g/l residual sugar and 6.53g/l acidity) 2026-2055

Offering flavors of baked brioche, vanilla, apple tarte tatin, spiced orange peel and salted caramel, this rich version floats with meringuelike weight on the palate. Hints of dried rosemary, smoke and white chocolate add detail and complexity before lingering on the plush finish. Furmint and Hárslevelü. Drink now through 2034. 408 cases made, 50 cases imported.

Pure botrytis character coming through, with spices, pepper, minerals and savory touches of dry soil on the nose. Denser and more compact on the palate, with a full body, bitter notes and a very fine, silky texture. Hints of spiced citrus peel at the end. Very long. Drink or hold.

Almonds, hazelnuts, lemon curd and sweetly stewed figs headline the nose of this single-vineyard Hungarian dessert wine, which has a pleasantly viscous palate rich with vanilla custard and spiced pear compote. The long finish has a subtle tartness, making you crave another sip.