Shiraz Underhill, Yarra Yering 2022

The 2022 Shiraz Underhill aromatically leads with resinous tobacco character, raspberry and mortadella, cassis, perfume and dried flowers. In the mouth, the wine is lean and full of whole-bunch characters, although I believe this only makes up about 20% of the wine. With dried orange peel and bergamot, musk sticks (fondant candy), lavender and blueberries, this is elegant but lean and bunchy. It's a style and done well. From an eight-acre, clay-based soil Shiraz block with a westerly aspect planted in 1973. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. in 2023, this wine won the trophy for Best Victorian Shiraz at the Melbourne Royal Wine Awards.

100% Shiraz. This is a glorious shiraz, bursting with life and what will surely be a 40-year life span, so perfectly framed and balanced are its black cherry and blackberry fruit duo, tannins obediently bending the knee to the fruit