Pouilly Fuisse Cuvee Unique, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2021

The one cuvée that really transcends the vintage this year is Guffens's 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Unique, a complex, fleshy wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of clear honey, tangerine oil and pear mingled with freshly baked bread, white flowers and a deft touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a layered core of fruit, racy acids and a long, chalky finish, it's seamless and complete.

Including some fruit picked as it began to turn color (a condition known as "levroutée" in Mâconnais parlance), Guffens's 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Unique unites all his holdings in the appellation. Exhibiting aromas of citrus zest, mint, confit orange, white flowers and nutmeg, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with uncommon richness and structure for the vintage, concluding with a long, slightly lactic finish.