Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2002

The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat. The 2002 was disgorged in June 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2032.

65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Pale copper. Rich, intense, very Pinot perfume. Tight bead with - surely? - some oak influence. A very meaty, substantial wine - and almost more of a wine than a champagne. Lightly frothy. Complex and attention-grabbing though more for food than an aperitif wine. A bit like a jewel. Long. Admirably distinctive, though it needs careful treatment.