Meursault Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2023

This possesses the most floral nose in the entire range in 2023, with its equally elegant nose of the essence of pear, crushed anise and lemon confit. Here too the mouthfeel of the exceptionally rich flavors is generous and opulent to the point of being highly seductive though, and much like the Perrières, they don't lose their precision on the strikingly long finale that isn't quite tightly wound. Even so, this should also reward extended cellaring. (Drink starting 2033)

Lafon's 2023 Meursault Charmes is an instant classic, with aromas of ripe apple and hazelnut accented with a bit of smoky reduction and buttery depth. The texture is rich yet lively, and the wine lingers persistently on the palate. It is produced from very old vines from 60-95 years old that are located at the southern end of Charmes Dessus, bordered by Perrières and Puligny-Combottes. The youngest vines are declassified, and the grapes are pressed as whole clusters before fermenting and ageing in cask (25% new) over two winters. (Drink between 2030-2050)