Margaux 1983

As I have noted consistently, this can be a breathtaking wine, but having tasted it close to a dozen times since the last edition of this book, over half the bottles were marred by tainted corks. In fact, one would almost wonder if there was TCA problem in part of the wine storage area. The percentage of corked half-bottles is even higher than in the regular format. However, when clean this 1983, which has seemingly reached full maturity far faster than I would have guessed a mere four years ago, has a dense, murky plum/purple color and a gorgeous nose of smoked herbs, damp earth, mushrooms, and sweet creme de cassis intermixed with vanilla and violets The wine is medium to full-bodied, deep, rich, and powerful, with sweet tannins and loads of fruit concentration. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 11/02.

The 1983 Château Margaux is a fantastic wine that heralded the true return of the First Growth. This bottle came directly from the château's cellars. Incredible delineation and focus on the nose, this is just so pure and charming with black fruit, graphite, melted tar, cedar and pressed rose petals. It is close to perfection. The palate offers exquisite balance and finely-sculpted tannins. It's elegant and almost totally disguises its power. It gently fans out towards the finish with utmost poise and sophistication. Stunning. Tasted at the château.

Tasted at the Amuse Bouche offline in Hong Kong. I thought in the melee of bottles this was overlooked, perhaps because everyone knows that it is a great wine. It is consistent with previous notes: beautifully defined on its vivacious nose, wonderful symmetry and tension on the palate. It is one of those bottles that can get lost when so much is going on around it, because it is such a subtle Margaux, there is no need to show off. Tasted November 2011.