Grand Puy Lacoste 2003

Blackberry and licorice aromas, with full body, very fine tannins and a long finish. Very silky. So much for jammy wines in 2003. Very fresh and refined. Best after 2008.

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It's tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A little untamed, which is unusual for this Pauillac, but then again, why not once in a while? Tasted at the château. 2023 - 2036

An atypically superficial effort from one of my favorite Pauillacs, the 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is very good, but it does not stand up to some of the finest northern Medoc offerings. A deep ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by a moderately intense bouquet of black currants and underbrush. It hits the palate with good fruit and medium body, but tails off in the finish. It is an elegant, lighter-styled example of this generally high-class performer. It can be consumed over the next 10-12 years.

Lots of evolution at the rim. Lift and raciness. Thick and sweet and just a tad heavy - and certainly oddly sweet! (Average group score: 15.5)