Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1990

The 1990 Echezeaux continues to confirm that the DRC has been successful in turning out a richer, more structured wine in vintages since 1988. The deep color (it may be the darkest Echezeaux I have seen) is followed by a bouquet with well-developed aromas of spices, plums, black-raspberries, and sweet new oak. In the mouth, the wine exhibits admirable toastiness, rich, medium to full body, moderate tannins, low acidity, and an impressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 1995-2010. The DRC 1990s, all of which were bottled in April/May, are among the deepest colored wines from this domaine that I have tasted in the last decade. Moreover, they are firmly structured, with significant tannins from both the vintage and from the aging in 100% new oak barrels. For the fortunate few who have had the discretionary income to afford the other great vintages of the DRC from the eighties, 1980, 1983, 1985, 1988, and 1989, the question is - are the 1990s superior? I am not sure they are any better than the 1980s, 1985, and 1988s, but they undoubtedly represent a classic, concentrated, long-lived style of wine. Moreover, all of these wines should have a more graceful evolution and broader window of drinkability than the tannic 1988s, as well as potentially greater longevity than the succulent and opulent 1985s. All of these offerings are outstanding, with that tell-tale complex, exotic fragrance that the DRC routinely achieves.

The sort of fabulous Pinot Noir that quickens a wine lover's pulse. Pretty amazing: Dark in color, it starts out reserved then hits high gear with loads of lush, ripe, sweet red- and blackberry flavor. Fine tannins and a long finish. My guess is grand cru Burgundy.--Pinot Noir Challenge. Drink now through 2020.