Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Coche-Dury 2016

A background note of matchstick character is present on the ripe citrus, spiced green apple and airy white flower aromas that are still quite youthful. There is good if not massive size and weight to the rich, fleshy and mouth coating large-scaled flavors that evidence obvious power while brimming with minerality on the strikingly long finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. As is often the case with the Coche Corton-Charlemagne, it is built for the very long-term and it wouldn't surprise me if 20 years was necessary to see this at its full maturity though at present, it seems that 15 years should be about right. Either way, this is stunningly good. (Drink starting 2031)

Coche began to release his 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru last year, and the wine is just beginning to unwind, offering up aromas of citrus oil, peach and pear mingled with freshly baked bread, toasted almonds, iodine and struck match. Full-bodied, broad and layered, with a dense core of concentrated fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish, it's from a climat that was largely spared by the frost in 2016.

The family three-quarters of a hectare of vines in le Charlemagne are in the sector of the hill of Corton that was barely touched by frost, so the domaine was very lucky in this regard. Not surprisingly, this is pure magic, soaring from the glass in a beautiful constellation of apple, pear passion fruit, a complex base of limestone minerality, a touch of iodine, white flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, long and shows off stunning mid-palate depth, with great mineral drive, precise focus and grip, racy acids and a very, very long, structured and oh, so promising finish. (Drink between 2026-2075)