Chablis Les Clos, Verget 2006

A fascinating nose of stone dust and white flower aromas combine with superbly well detailed and intensely mineral suffused flavors that are dry, penetrating and wonderfully long on the explosive and palate staining finish. The clear class of this group, even if only by a little.

Knockout nose combines piquant citrus peel, minerals and white flowers. Enters the mouth with terrific lift, then shows a lovely silky texture allied to terrific grip and inner-mouth floral perfume. Mounts impressively on the back half, finishing with superb palate-dusting persistence and an almost tannic impression. Very firmly structured, sappy Chablis that's much more about its great grand cru site than simply about chardonnay.

The Verget 2006 Chablis Les Clos is from 50-year-old vines, vinified half in barrique (a substantial portion new) and half in cement, but no part spent more than 8 months in wood. Fresh lemon and citrus zest, brine and savory crustacean reduction; flowers and white peach all vie for attention. Along with alluring richness of texture come a palpable sense of chalky extract, leading to a bright, savory and stony finish of impressive grip. This has promising potential and should keep well for at least a decade