Bâtard Montrachet, Joseph Colin 2017

Markedly floral aromas enjoy added breadth in the form of spice, citrus and a suggestion of the exotic. The opulent and exceptionally rich big-bodied flavors possess an enveloping mouth feel though there is plenty of punch to the bone dry bitter lemon-inflected finish. This too will need to add depth with time in bottle but it clearly possesses fine development potential. (Drink starting 2027)

There is one barrel of the 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a powerful wine that offers up aromas of yellow orchard fruit, white flowers, acacia honey and Meyer lemon. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, limpid and expansive, with a voluminous and fleshy core, succulent acids and a pure, penetrating finish. It's a more than creditable debut Bâtard.

There is just one (one year old) barrel of this, from purchased juice, and it has not been racked yet. The wine is relatively full in colour, with a sense of power on the nose and a little oak, fine weight in the mouth, plenty of muscle and showing the correct style. But I do not feel as though I have got inside the wine at this point. Tasted: October 2018.