Bâtard Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 2018

Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a textural, elegantly muscular wine evocative of pear, toasted almonds, white flowers, peach and vanilla pod. Layered and powerful, it concludes with a long, saline finish. It's more dramatic and broader-shouldered than the suave, seamless Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet this year.

Here the nose is more expressive and more elegant than it usually is at this early point with its cool citrus and broad range of floral elements that include rose petal, acacia and lilac along with subtle oak and spice wisps. The restrained, concentrated and enveloping larger-scaled flavors possess evident power and muscle, both of which become ever more apparent on the palate coating finish that goes on and on. This is a big but not massive Bâtard that should age gracefully over a 12 to 15 year cellaring horizon.