Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle No. 23 N.V.

Being released in magnum, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #23 is showing beautifully, mingling aromas of peach, pear, fresh pastry, citrus oil, buttered toast and white flowers. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's elegantly gourmand, with fabulous depth and a long, expansive finish. This is a blend based on 2006, complemented by 2004 and 2002. The volume and texture characteristic of the 2006 and 2002 vintages take the lead here, with the 2004 bringing supplemental aromatic complexity. One of the more demonstrative recent renditions of Grand Siècle, this is a fabulous choice for drinking over the next decade or two. Drink: 2020-2040.

Dried lemons, salted almonds, oyster shells, croissants, iodine, baked apples, spices and some ginger notes. White pepper, too. Vibrant and fresh, with a distinct saline edge. I like the subtle spice character. So much subtle power and tension. 58% chardonnay and 42% pinot noir, from 2006, 2004 and 2002. 14 years on the lees, three or four more than the normal bottle release. Only available in magnum. Drink or hold.

Deep straw. Even immediately on opening the room was full of the aroma of a beautifully balanced, vital champagne with lots of age but no heaviness. There's a certain amount of richness but the richness of age, and it's clear that Chardonnay is the dominant ingredient. Really zingy nose with a tiny, almost invisible, bead that is refreshing without being remotely aggressive. There is some sensation of confit lemons (including a hint of saltiness) and this is really very, very lively. But the most obvious quality of this wine is its incredible persistence. It deserves so much attention. I commented to Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt, granddaughter of the founder, Bernard de Nonancourt, that I felt it would be a shame to serve it at a wedding where its superior character might be overlooked but I don't think she agreed.