Selosse Brut Initial, Champagne Jacques Selosse N.V.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial is absolutely impeccable. It's hard to know where to start. What is more impressive: the definition of aromas and flavors, or is it the wine's sublime texture? The Initial is remarkable for its nuance, clarity and overall sense of harmony. The mousse is impeccably fine from start to finish, while the expression of Chardonnay is all elegance. Juicy apricots, peaches, flowers, crushed rocks and spices meld together on the seamless, utterly impeccable finish. Initial is Selosse's largest production cuvee and is a blend of fruit from Avize, Cramant and Oger, all Grand Cru villages. Disgorged October 20, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial shows unusual richness and depth for this bottling. This is an especially vinous, powerful Initial endowed with tons of fruit married to Selosse's trademark textural finesse. The aromas and flavors are a touch forward, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The Initial is the entry-level wine at Selosse, but is the equivalent to most producers' tete de cuvee.

Eleven Madison Park: Jacques Selosse's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Initiale (disgorged Jan. 18, 2008) was a great way to kick off the evening. This energetic, vibrant wine impressed for its combination of voluminous, richly-textured fruit and zesty freshness. It was an impeccable, totally first-rate Champagne.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial is rich and creamy, with waves of ripe fruit that caress the palate. Scents of light honey, toastiness and hazelnuts add layers of complexity and nuance. The wine shows terrific detail, with a vein of graphite and minerality that frames the long, sensual finish. The Initial is Chardonnay from the villages of Avize, Cramant and Oger. This is the March 29, 2009 disgorgement and the base vintages are 2004, 2003 and 2002. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is a marvelous set of new releases from Anselme Selosse. All of the wines were still vibrant and fresh when I re-tasted them a day after opening.