Sancerre Les Trois Coteaux Terres de Caillottes, Brochard, Hubert 2023

I was expecting the Terres Blanches to be more Chablis-esque than the Caillottes, however, this has the edge on power and style. From vineyard parcels in Chavignol, on 25-degree slopes of caillottes and griottes. Vinified in a mix of amphorae, stainless steel and barrel, then matured six months on lees. 45,000 bottles produced. There is a distinct force and energy here; a touch of sea-shell salinity on nose and palate, with a long, fine finish. Definitely of good, premier cru Chablis quality.

Closed on the nose. Stony texture and stony minerality when first poured, and then, almost imperceptibly, the wine begins to shift. Fennel bulb. Nectarine. Bitter orange. Lemon-soaked quince. Texture of stone turning to texture of pith and plaid. Smoothness starting to riffle and ripple with flavours, acidity quietly contouring the folds. When tasted on day two, and then day three and day four, it became progressively more peachy, richer, more apricot and mirabelle, more spicy: aniseed and caraway, even a touch of green chilli. More and more exciting by the day. This wine will age. Hold onto it for a couple of years at least, if you can. A thrilling wine that really needs another two years in bottle.