Rivesaltes, Château Sisqueille 1946

The 1946 Rivesaltes has that distinctive bouquet like an old Climens or Coutet, quite elegant and pure with dried quince and a touch of eau-de-vie. The palate is medium-bodied with marmalade and quince notes, tinged with Szechuan peppers that leave the mouth tingling afterwards. Lovely. Tasted with Philippe Gayral. 2018 - 2027

Drink 2014-2030Near Canet-en-Roussillon. The owners owned almost a quarter of Roussillon at one time! Fox red. A bit dank on the nose. Not the most concentrated. Easy and lemon peel. Lighter than most. Salty finish. 16%

Vibrant sweetness, nutty and smooth.One of the most extraordinary tastings recently has been of 19 Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturels from 2000 to 1933. These naturally sweet fortified wines from 16% to 17.5% abv, were unearthed by Montpellier based oenologue Philippe Gayral. They are still in cask, to be bottled under his brand L'Archiviste. In 1950, 60 million litres of Rivesaltes VDN were drunk in France; today just 1 million. Soon they will cease to exist. One or two bottles are a must for every cellar.

Less than 50% Grenache Noir and over 50% white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat.Mid orangey tawny. Despite the Grenache Noir it's pretty pale. A little simple, boiled sweets on the nose. Hint of almonds and seems a little light. Dry finish. 16%