Macharnudo San Cayetano, De La Riva 2024

This opens with iodine, crusted sea salt and a subtle touch of lime, wrapped in delicate floral notes. The palate is saline and expansive, yet ample and incisive, with a deep texture. There’s a solid and angular, almost architectural sense of salinity here, layered and persistent. One of the most compelling expressions of this style. Drink or hold.

Iodine and saltiness on the nose, really smells of the ocean - like an oyster shack with orange and lemon scents alongside white pepper and pears. Wild herbal elements with brisk acidity and a deep salty core - olive tapenade and lots of toasted nuts. Quite a singular style with some smokey reduction and a minerality that just lasts and lasts. Director Luis Pérez, winemakers Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Pérez

Hold on to your hats, this is grippy, slim, intense, a slow burn white that reminds you just how brilliant the Palomino grape can be. Gunsmoke reduction on the opening, juicy and fleshy but so understated, soy, sea spray, white pear, grilled almonds, with a touch of Xeres tang. Limestone soils, 3.35ha, harvest August 30, fermented in 615l sherry butts, no temperature control, one year of flor ageing. From the brilliant De La Riva winery, with owners and winemakers Willy Perez and Ramiro Ibanez.