Heytesbury Chardonnay, Vasse Felix 2023

The 2023 Heytesbury Chardonnay reveals all the poise and balance we expect from the season. It is awesome. This feels totally weighted on the back palate. The fruit intensity, coupled with powerful acidity and phenolic presence, fully penetrates beyond mere "flavor experience" and dives deep into the senses; the only option left is to ride that wave until it slowly fades. It's a persistent, sophisticated wine of latent power and patience. While this is released two years from harvest, it doesn't start to show its complex potential until around five years from harvest and far beyond that. It's slow to emerge and slow to age. This is a 100% Gingin clone Chardonnay, matured in French oak barriques, 52% new, for nine months, with seven months blended in tank prior to bottling. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. The 2023 Heytesbury Chardonnay hails from a pristine vintage in Margaret River. The season was on the cooler side of things but remained very dry and devoid of heat surges. Good weather at flowering meant yields were healthy, and from what I have seen so far, the season seems to have teased the very best from producers right across Western Australia, from all varieties. It truly was "one of those years."

An intensely complex and inviting nose with aromas of lemon curd, grapefruit rind, orange blossoms and gunsmoke. The medium-bodied palate has a textural mouthfeel and vivid acidity, showing notes of lime zest, mandarin pith, fresh pineapple and cookies. Multidimensional and giving with an underlying tension. Exceptional. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

A stunning chardonnay, which is in a great place right now. Super-complex with an appealing level of flinty reduction overlying Gin Gin grapefruit aromas augmented by hints of toasted almond, white peach, lemon and slaty minerality. Profound flavour, lush, rich and powerful, a very impressive chardonnay that's great to drink now and will reward ageing. Drink: 2025-2038

2026 White Wine of the Year, Chardonnay of the Year. Score awarded by the Halliday tasting panel at the annual Awards judging. JF writes: When it comes to the best of the best, provenance is paramount. And taste memory utmost, especially when tasting Heytesbury made under Virginia Willcock’s tutelage (in ’26 she clocks up 20 years as chief winemaker at Vasse Felix, during which time she has transformed chardonnay in the region and beyond). Her influence is here in this wine, and ’23 will be known as one of the finest. It's hard to explain because it’s still very tightly wound, yet it has depth and volume. Oscillating between power and refinement, intensity and pure drinking pleasure. Grapefruit, Meyer lemon, a crushed oyster shell note, flinty, moreish sulphides, texture, mouth-watering, pure acidity and so much more besides. Nothing else to say other than that this is outstanding. Drink: 2025-2036